Summer 2014 DW Fashion Design Challenge: Entry #15: Professional

Entrant Category: Professional

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1) Outfit design

For this challenge, I wanted to tap into my true love... historical sewing! :) Having recently spent some time learning about my ancestors who lived in the mid 1800s, Addy was the perfect choice for my School Outfit character. Since her blue school ensemble was retired awhile ago, I wanted to re-imagine it, and add some fun new details. I also decided to make a complete outfit, from the inside out, so I planned a full set of mid 1800s undies! I I already had the Pleasant Company pattern for her school outfit, and a 1998 catalog with Addy's collection, but I decided to do an Internet search for some additional inspiration, and found these images:

While browsing through my inspiration pictures, I decided to use a red color scheme, instead of the original blue, and do a plaid skirt (like the little girl in one of the vintage fashion plates!), cream blouse, and solid jacket. I had the perfect plaid fabric, and a red wool remnant in my stash, so just had to purchase a nice cream-colored cotton blend. I fell in love with some pretty trim while at the fabric store, so it came home with me, too.....perfect for accenting the jacket & blouse. :)

For the undergarments, I planned to do a basic cotton shift/chemise over a pair of drawers, along with a petticoat to give the skirt a nice, full 1860s silhouette. I had a scrap of ribbon trim I'd made for a previous project, and decided to make more....it would be a perfect accent to help structure the petticoat.

2) Outfit in process of being created

I started with the undergarments. To make the drawers, I traced Addy's Meet drawers onto paper, added a seam allowance, and used some wide cotton lace trim to make up my own pair. Stitched the pieces together, and added an elastic waistband... no hem needed!

For the chemise, I used the Pleasant Company pattern for Felicity's shift. I cut the pieces out of unbleached muslin, and started to assemble them. When I got to the neck, I stitched the neckband on the wrong side. :-/ So, being the procrastinator I am, I placed it to the side to rip stitches another day. Ultimately, I ran out of time to finish this piece, and used an identical one I'd made previously.

Finally, the fun part...the petticoat! I wanted to use enough layers to help bulk up the skirt, so using the skirt pattern from Addy's school ensemble as a guide (minus the pleats), I did three layers...basic muslin first, lace trim on top, and pretty coordinating cotton print with ribbon trim for the final layer. After I made assembled all the layers, I basted them together, added a waistband with a velcro closure, and finished the petticoat.

And the finished set of undergarments!

For the School outfit, I started with the skirt. I had seen a technique that pleated fabric to make it look like a bit like a wave, and thought it would be a pretty accent for the skirt. I believe they're called Mexican pleats? I ironed the pleats into my fabric before cutting out the skirt pieces, and then stitched across them opposite directions to get the pleat folds to lay correctly. After finishing this, I then pinned my pattern pieces on, and cut out my skirt. I finished the skirt according to the pattern directions, using velcro for the back closure.

For the blouse, I cut out the pattern pieces, and assembled them according to the directions. I added some of the trim I picked up at the fabric store, and accented the neckline with a cameo charm. I researched to see if cameos were appropriate to the time period, and discovered that not only were they all the rage, but the blue, reminiscent of Wedgwood Jasperware, was quite common for cameos, as well. In fact, Josiah Wedgwood was a very outspoken abolitionist. I thought this fit with Addy's theme very well! :) Once the blouse was completed, I decided to add a line of gathering stitches to the sleeves to create a double pouf!

Finally, the jacket! I cut the main pieces out of red wool, and the lining from matching taffeta. After stitching the jacket together, I hand stitched matching trim from the blouse on by hand.

3) Outfit complete and modeled

(((I would have loved to pose Addy with some fun school props, but my collection isn't there yet... :-/ Here's some basic portraits...someday my photos will be more interesting!!))))

The finished ensemble!!

(Excuse Addy's "neck fuzz"... she's an original 1993 doll, and could use a limb-tightening!) :)